MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4
PADANG – JAKARTA (capital pop: 9 million; pop of the metropolitan area: 30 million)
Claude and I flew with Lion Air from Padang to Jakarta. The flight lasted 1 hour 40 minutes. On our way out of Soekarno Hatta International Airport, Yayuk, my counterpart from Canada World Youth and her driver Hasan came to meet us. What a pleasure to see Yayuk again after 36 years! Caught in traffic for part of the journey, it took us two hours to get to her house. It lives in Bukit Permai, an affluent district of Cibubur, 80% inhabited by military personnel. At the entrance, security guards guard the scene night and day.
Yayuk’s house is large and luxurious with a pool dug into the courtyard. The pieces are loaded with objects of all kinds: trinkets, frames, collectible plates, etc. Since she has two other houses, one in Switzerland and one in Bali, the one in Jakarta lacks a bit of maintenance because she only comes occasionally. At the time, Yayuk had six employees at his Jakarta home: a nanny for his daughter, a cook, a housekeeper, a driver, a gardener and a sixth employee for whatever. Today, only her driver Hasan still works for her and watches over the house.
We dined at home with the groceries purchased by Yayuk in the afternoon and the hot meal that his driver took care to go and buy for us. We all went to bed early, tired of our long, emotional day.
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5
JAKARTA (Cibubur)
Yayuk had prepared us a good Indonesian soup for breakfast. His driver then drove the three of us to Taman Miniature Indonesia. Under a blazing sun, we toured this wonderful site where a traditional house from each of Indonesia’s 34 states is represented. I got out of the van several times to take a closer look. The site also includes: the Garuda Theatre, Disney Children’s Castle, the Museum Fauna Indonesia dan Taman Reptilia, a lake with small miniature islands representing Indonesia’s main islands and their volcanoes, a replica of a Hindu temple, a Buddhist temple in Bali and a Chinese Buddhist temple, a cinema (a modern yellow building with three domes), the Purna Bhakti Pertiwi Museum (dedicated to Suekarno, Indonesia’s first president), etc. In short, the site is huge, and it is impossible to see everything in a single day.
We then went to the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. Claude donned a sarong, helped by Hasan, and I covered my head with my scarf. We dropped off our sandals at the entrance and went inside the mosque. Yayuk and I joined the women. I sat next to Yayuk and stayed there throughout the prayer, a little uncomfortable not to follow the movements of the whole group. Claude stayed behind for a while at the back of the big room and then waited for us at the exit. I enjoyed observing the progress of prayer in this important place of worship.
When Yayuk left the mosque, she wanted to eat ice cream. She took us to Ragusa Es Italia, a small specialty restaurant where we ordered an iced latte (kopi susu) with a scoop of chocolate ice cream on top. I had a headache, and I was starting to feel bad. I wasn’t able to finish my coffee.
We then crossed the street to watch the seller of « kerak telor » (traditional and spicy omelette) preparing the order for Yayuk.
We passed the governor’s house and landed at Lenggong Jakarta, the National Monument’s tourist access point with souvenir market and food kiosks. We took the cart to the monument. We visited the permanent exhibition inside the monument. Indonesia’s history is represented in the form of beautiful models with figurines.
Caught in the infernal traffic of the capital, we arrived at Yayuk’s at 8:30 p.m. We had a soup and went to bed early, tired of our long day.
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 6 (Claude’s Birthday)
JAKARTA
I had a very bad night; I think I suffered from heat stroke during the day (diarrhea, vomiting, fever and headache). Also, I was tired of accumulating because we had really had a busy schedule in the last two weeks. How bad I felt! I stayed in bed all morning, worried about perhaps having caught malaria and wondering if I should go to a clinic for a blood test as my nurse – before we left Canada – in such circumstances. I phoned my insurance company, and they opened a file. Eventually, the fever fell, and I decided to drop a doctor’s visit.
The day before, Yayuk had issued an invitation to all members of the group PPIK 82 (Canada World Youth 82) on WhatsApp to come and celebrate my dear Claude’s birthday at home. Several answered the call: Rita, Nova, Evita, Rahman and her youngest son, Dadang (my ex-lover) and Yudi. The women came first and came to my bedside, each of their recommendations so that I could get better. I stayed in bed until the other guests arrived. As the party began, I made the effort to get dressed and go and find them in the dining room. I just had time to greet each of the guests when I suddenly felt I was going to be sick. I ran to the toilet and threw up the diarrhea antibiotic that I had decided to take less than an hour before. Afterwards, I felt better, and I had a boost of energy that allowed me to participate in the party. However, I was not able to swallow a single bite of the magnificent buffet prepared by Yayuk. We had a lot of fun singing (in English, French and Bahasa Indonesia), dancing the « Serendu Rendu » (Javanese dance) and remembering old memories of the time of CWY. Evita gave Claude and I each a PPIK 82 souvenir sweater. Rahman brought a festive cake and two sarongs: one for Claude and one for me. We were very spoiled. For me, it was a wonderful reunion. Claude, for his part, has made new friends. They really enjoyed meeting him and quickly became attached to him. It was beautiful to see.
The last guests left around 4:30 p.m. I went to rest and got up around 6pm for dinner with Yayuk and Claude. I ate very lightly, feeling my stomach still fragile and not feeling hungry. At 8.30pm, I went to bed and had a great night, unlike the previous night which had been hell!
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 7
Jakarta
When I got up at 6:30am, a surprise was waiting for me; Yayuk had brought Masi, her massage therapist, for me and Claude. It is with happiness that I let Masi, small, stocky, strong and enduring, take care of my body. I had never had such a good massage in my life. No muscle or veins have been forgotten. She found me two sensitive points: one in the upper back and one in the right thigh. After me, it was Claude’s turn. For two hours in total, she charged us the paltry price of 20 $CAD.
I had a nice breakfast, happy to see that my appetite was coming back. I already felt much better than the day before. Claude and I spent a quiet day swimming and relaxing around the Yayuk pool to give me a chance to regain strength. We went out for a little hour in the middle of the day, discovering the Yayuk district and the lake. We chatted for a while with some fishermen and had a coffee in a small restaurant nearby.
We had company for dinner and evening at Yayuk’s: Ida, Deali, Iir and Yuni, accompanied by her son Ari and granddaughter Xlisa. I chatted with the women on the patio until the end of the evening. Yayuk is a storyteller and likes to laugh. We had a lot of fun with her! (Yayuk’s friends couldn’t leave until 9 p.m. As Jakarta has a big traffic and air pollution problem, car travel is managed according to licensing numbers.)
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8
JAKARTA BOGOR
We got up at 5.30am so we could leave at 6am towards Bogor and avoid getting caught up in the heavy traffic of the capital. Hasan took me, Yayuk, Claude and I, to Kebun Raya Bogor (Glorious Bogor Gardens). While waiting for the site to open, Yayuk has purchased pastries at Bogor Permai, the city’s renowned pastry shop.
We went around the gardens mainly by van to save time because the site is huge. We made a few stops to allow us to take pictures and better appreciate the beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees from several countries in Asia and Africa. Claude and I also walked along the lakeside path leading to the governor’s house. (This road is off-limits to cars.)
We then visited Yayuk’s older sister Yuyun at Jakarta Timor Hospital. She was undergoing her biweekly dialysis treatment, accompanied by her husband Bana. Yayuk gave her sister a gift for her favorite pastries. A rather unexpected photo shoot followed; the nurses upstairs rushed to get their picture taken with the two Canadians (Claude and me)!
Claude, not very comfortable in hospitals, went out to wait for us outside. He took the opportunity to buy a good big chicken burger but, at the first bite, he was very unfortunate to find that what he had bought was rather a big rice ball (wrapped in hamburger paper). ☹ He who was tanned with rice and thought he would have fun; he had definitely missed his shot! We had a good laugh at his story when he told us about his misadventure!
We had dinner at the Bakmi Gajah Mada Plaza restaurant at the Junction Cibubur shopping center. I ate a light soup; my appetite was not back to normal yet.
Back at Yayuk, we spent the hot afternoon bathing and taking care around the pool (writing for me, reading and listening to music for Claude). We had our last supper with Yayuk, enjoying this last moment together at her home in Jakarta.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 9
JAKARTA – BANDUNG
We got up early and had a quick breakfast. We left at 8am to the train station with Yayuk and Hasan, his driver. (Yayuk wanted to come and drive us before heading to the airport where she was due to fly to Bali at 2pm. As the traffic is terrible in Jakarta, we had no choice but to leave so early.) We arrived at the « Stasiun Gambir » at 9am and bid farewell to Yayuk and Hasan. I felt drained of energy and the hubbub of the station seemed hellish. I was not yet quite replaced by my ailments. Claude and I decided to rent a small single room for 4 hours ($29 CAD) at the Rail Transit Suite Gambir. What a great idea we had! I lay there for four hours while Claude went for a walk. We had dinner at our room (McDo: Spicy Chicken Mac and mini fries). I ate with appetite, a sign that I was starting to get better and happy to eat something other than rice!
We waited 30 minutes in front of the railway, in front of the Monas National Monument, in a temperature of 36 degrees C. Ouf! What suffocating heat! My back was completely wet! The train journey from Jakarta to Bandung took 3 hours 30 minutes ($11 CAD each in economy class). During the last hour, my nose was riveted to the window, amazed by the mountainous and lush landscapes. The terraced rice fields were particularly impressive to see.
The train arrived at the Stasiun Bandung at 5:45 p.m. Bandung is Indonesia’s fourth largest city with a population of 2.6 million. The city is 768 m above sea level. Located 140 km southeast of Jakarta, Bandung was built along the Citarum River and is surrounded by volcanic mountains.
We took a GrabTaxi to Opim’s house, Shofwan’s junior thread (30 minutes; $4 CAD). We were received by her maid and her daughter. Google Translate has been very helpful. (Opim was away, leaving for the weekend in Jakarta with his wife and five children.) The maid told us to move into the large master bedroom on the2nd floor. We had the whole floor to ourselves, including a small living room, a kitchen table and a nice bathroom. The only problem was that there was no air conditioning or fan at our disposal. Phew! What exhausting heat! The maid set us up from coffee and watermelon. And a little later, surprised, she called us to go down to dinner. Wow! What a welcome!
In the evening, we had a visit from Betty, ex-CWY participant. It was a great reunion after 36 years without seeing each other! She arrived with her husband, son, daughter-in-law and a cake. It was with excitement that we looked at my photos from 1982 and remembered old memories. Her husband befriended Claude. He invited us to attend an engagement the next day, but we gently refused the invitation because our plans were already made. How kind these Indonesians are!
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 10
BANDUNG
We had lunch upstairs; the maid had placed for us, bread, jam and latte on our table. Sule, friend and driver hired for us by our host Opim, arrived at 9am as planned with his friend Azel. We offered them coffee and cake upstairs, just to get to know each other before going to explore the city with Sule.
We began our tours with Alun Alun, the main square in the old Bandung district, passing the KAA monument (Konferensi Asia Afrika) and crossing the Palestine Walk: Road to Freedom. The huge Masjid Raya Bandung Mosque dominates the main square.
We walked around the mosque, discovering the Plaza Parahangan (a large shopping centre for local customers), the white buildings of the Dutch colonial era (almost all owned by banks), the Indra Busana building (food court), the first Bandung Post Office, the famous Jalan Asia-Afrika street and a small cultural centre with Sudanese dance performance (from West Java) to the sound of the gamelan (traditional orchestra).
We then visited the Konferensi Asia-Afrika Museum dedicated to Suekarno, Indonesia’s first president and father of independence (1945). (This one is loved by Indonesians. However, Suharto, his successor and dictator for 32 years, is not unanimous among citizens!) We also visited the famous conference room where, at the sight of the eagle, the national emblem of the Indonesian Republic, I was taken with emotions; all my old memories of this country that is so dear to me, have suddenly resurfaced in my memory.
We stopped at the Stasiun Bandung to buy our tickets for Yogyakarta ($38 CAD for 2 for a 7 hour and 30 minutes ride). Then we went to visit the « Governor’s House », a huge building with two beautiful conference rooms and a museum (Museum Gedung Sate) dedicated to the governor. On the4th floor, a panoramic view of the city of Bandung allows you to appreciate the beauty of the mountains and the two volcanoes: Kawah Putih and Tangkuban Perahu. (The latter, 2084 meters high, has erupted since July 26, 2019.)
We had dinner in a small restaurant close to the museum. Our Indonesian food was delicious. Two charming little Chinese-Indonesians, aged 5 and 7, kept us company, happy to speak English with us; too cute!
We then drove for an hour in traffic to get to Selasar Sunaryo Art Space (art gallery, small Roman amphitheatre, covered outdoor stage and café). Unfortunately, no activity was taking place at the time of our visit. Only the café was open. So, we had a coffee while enjoying the view overlooking the rich tropical vegetation of the site.
Sule, our guide and driver then offered to go to Taman Hutan Raya Ir.H. Juanda. This huge site is a protected territory and botanical garden comprising 2,500 species of plants. Several trails are laid out. We borrowed the one leading to the first cave, the Goa Jepang. This cave was dug by the Japanese military during their war against the Dutch. In the light of our cell phones, Sule and I entered the long corridors fresh, dark and of little interest to come out a few moments later.
Feeling the fatigue of the day, we turned back. We came across a few long-tailed macaques, to my delight!
At 5pm, we were back at Opim’s. A nice plate of fruit was waiting for us. We relaxed in our small living room on the2nd floor to the sound of rain drumming on the roof. At 8:00, surprise, the maid called us for supper. I didn’t expect it at all, so I had already had dinner with a peanut butter sandwich! I still found a small place to honor his good food.
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 11
BANDUNG
We got up early because it was understood that Sule would pick us up as early as 7am to avoid heavy traffic. Despite everything, the traffic was already heavy, and it took us a big hour to get out of town. Then, on the highway, the lane was clear, allowing us to drive at 115 km/h instead of 20 km/h! We had to slow down on the narrow mountain road, crossing several small, charming and lush villages of terraced rice paddies. In all, it took us an hour and a half to travel the 50 km to Kawah Putih. This crater lake is one of the two craters of Mount Patuha. As the name suggests, the crater lake and its surroundings are dominated by a pale white color that radiates a rather mesmerizing atmosphere. The vast volcanic dormant crater is filled with surreal turquoise water. The cliffs of half-charred trees that surround the crater reach an altitude of about 2,500 meters and provide a beautiful backdrop.
We first explored the crater at ground level and then took the skywalk trail overlooking the crater. We met a lovely Malaysian couple with their children. They warmly invited us to visit them at home in Malaysia! What a spontaneous generosity!
We drove about 15 km through beautiful tea plantations to the Glamping (Glamour Camping) Lakeside Rancabali located on the shore of Lake Situ Patenggang. This luxury campsite offers accommodation in large tents by the lake and through tea plantations.
We had dinner at THE PISINI RESTO, aboard a large wooden boat in dry dock, accessible by a suspension bridge and offering a superb view of the mountains and plantations surrounding the lake.
On the way back, we made a brief roadside stop at a Strawberry Farm. Strawberries are grown in pots.
Back in Bandung, we stopped at a pastry shop so we could offer a parting gift to our guests. When opim got home, he was there. We finally got to know him. He’s like his father! We handed him the pastries while thanking him for everything he had done for us. We met at supper time. There were five adults around the table: Opim, his wife Yola, Sule, Claude and me. We laughed at the little miseries of Quebec’s winter!
We took a picture with their five children (Syifa, Abraham, Ainique, Enavder and Aisyah) and Ika, Yola’s mother. We said our mutual farewells, not expecting to have the chance to see each other again the next morning before we left.
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 12
BANDUNG – YOGYAKARTA (pop: 400,000)
The maid set us eggs for breakfast. We then bid him farewell. I insisted on taking a picture with me. (Servants are rarely photographed; they are mostly kept away.) She ran to put on a long-sleeved vest and hijab to cover her arms and hair to be presentable as a Muslim.
We brought a Grab taxi to take us to the Stasiun Bandung. We spent the day on the train (8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.), which allowed me to update myself in the writing of my travel diary. The scenery was fantastic, and I kept marvelling at the sight of the rice paddies and mountains. How beautiful the ride is from Bandung to Yogyakarta!
Upon arrival in Yogyakarta, we called a Grab taxi to our hotel, the Duta Guest House ($31 CAD/night including breakfast), in the small tourist area of Prawirotaman Street 2km from the city centre. We were pleasantly surprised by this charming little hotel with swimming pool and beautiful landscaping (water cascades with big goldfish, bonzai, tropical plants, etc.). In addition, our room is large with glass doors overlooking our patio corner.
We quickly put on our swimsuits and ran to cool off in the pool. We then rested in our room before walking down our street in search of a restaurant for supper. Our choice proved excellent with the Burgerax restaurant. Our four-season garden salad and pizza were exquisite and with a real taste of North American cuisine. What a joy! It almost felt like home!
Before returning to the hotel, we took information from a tourist agency about the tours offered around Yogyakarta.
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 13
YOGYAKARTA
Our breakfast included was really delicious: omelette, mini banana pancakes, fresh fruit and latte.
We went to book the services of a driver for the next day, at the travel agency visited the day before. Then we went on a motorcycle rickshaw to the Sultan’s Palace. The site is huge. We saw a gamelan orchestra (traditional percussion orchestra) with singers and traditional puppet theatre, pavilions displaying furniture, crockery, clothes, decorative objects that belonged to the Sultan, a pavilion dedicated to the batik (Yogya is renowned for its batiks) with craftsmen at work, etc.
When I left the site, I bought light pants ($3 CAD) and two necklaces ($2 CAD each) at the small kiosks on the street while Claude chatted with Indonesians while having tea. A man led us to the end of a small alley at the Batik Painting Art Centre. We saw some artists at work and quickly watched the beautiful framed batiks of the shop.
We went by rickshaw to the Tamansari (Beautiful Garden), commonly known as the Water Castle. Built in 1684 by Sri Sultan Hamengku, the garden contains the magnificent royal swimming pool.
Hungry, we had a noodle soup and mini meatballs in a small restaurant on the street. We then met a young Belgian couple with whom we had fun talking about trips and this, in French!
We headed to the Sumur Gumeling, the Sultan’s underground mosque and meditation place. It was with joy that we enjoyed the freshness of the tunnel! The mid-day heat was unbearable (33 degrees C); Claude and I were sweating so much!
Starting by motorcycle-rickshaw, we finished our afternoon at Pasar Beringharjo, an indoor and outdoor market teeming mainly with batik clothing and other fabrics at good prices. Claude found himself a beautiful blue shirt ($12 CAD). We walked up the popular commercial street to the Malioboro shopping center. From there we took one last motorcycle-rickshaw to get back to our hotel. Swimming was welcome! We were served tea and donuts at the pool.
We rested at our room before going out for dinner, umbrella in hand, at our excellent restaurant the day before. Once again, we ate very well. We ended the evening walking in the rain in search of an ATM that I could use with my Desjardins cards. At the4th counter found, it was my BMO credit card that worked! I did a bit of window shopping before I went back to the hotel.
(Indonesian fashion doesn’t impress me and the fabrics are often too hot for me.)
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 14
YOGYAKARTA
I had a bad night, beset by a migraine. I took my medicine when I got up and brought fruit, bread and cheese in my backpack for lunch when my migraine had passed.
Our driver and guide Biyanto picked us up from the hotel at 8am for a tour of the region’s famous temples ($50 CAD for services for the day and $63 CAD each for entry to both temples). We started with the beautiful Borobudur temple. This important Buddhist building was built in the 8th and 9th centuries at the time of the Sailendra dynasty. The site seems to have been abandoned around the year 1100. It was discovered by Thomas Stamford Raffles in 1814.
The temple is both a stupa and, from the sky, a mandala. It forms a gigantic square and consists of four successive geometric and superimposed galleries. Like the entire monument, these galleries are covered with bas-reliefs, whose total length is about 5 kilometers, recounting the various episodes of the life of the Buddha Sakyamuni. The upper terrace is also topped by three concentric circular terraces lined with 72 stupas. They consist of open stone bells housing bodhisattvas. In the center of these terraces and thus at the top of the Borobubur, another stupa covers an unfinished Buddha. The temple is listed as a World Heritage Site.
At the entrance, you can feed a few deer. At the exit, four elephants are available for walks. In addition, you have to go through an endless number of souvenir shops before you get to the parking lot. Street vendors are insistent.
A few kilometers away, we visited a small temple, the Candi Pawon, part of all the temples of Borobudur.
Right next to the temple is the café restaurant « Pawon Luwak Coffee » which the driver told us a lot about. Kopi luwak is a coffee harvested from the feces of an Asian civet, the luwak of the lively family, due to an almost absent digestion. The civet consumes the cherries of the coffee tree, digesting their pulp but not their nucleus, which is found in its feces.
A few kilometres further, a third temple, the Candi Mendut, is also part of Borobudur. There are also two sections dedicated to ruins on this site. At the exit, the vendors of the small souvenir kiosks followed us so that we could buy them something. I haggled firm and finally bought two light pants and a blouse for a total of $11 CAD. Before leaving, I glanced at the « Mendut Buddhist Monastery » through the barred gate.
Biyanto took a small country road. We passed through several small villages, seeing rice fields and cultivated fields (corn, peppers, cassava, etc.). We made a stop to see the peanut crops up close and take some pictures of the Merapi volcano. (Another volcano, merbabu, is located behind the Merapi but we couldn’t see it from where we were.) Biyanto told us about the Eruption of Merapi in 2010: 212 dead and 6,500 houses destroyed by burning lava. The volcano is still active.
We had dinner at the pretty Kali Opak Restaurant, open to a beautiful bamboo forest. I wasn’t able to eat all my gado gado (crunchy vegetable salad topped with a peanut sauce). I was so hot that I had my appetite cut off! What unbearable heat! In order to lower the temperature of my body, I took care to wet my hair before leaving the restaurant.
We ended our visits with the Hindu Prambanan Temple. It is a collection of 240 Shivait temples, built in the 9th century under the Sanjaya dynasty of the first kingdom of Mataram. Prambanan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site is huge, and we had to walk 2 km under a blazing sun to see everything. The first temple, the Candi Prambanan, is the most impressive. The central temple is dedicated to Shiva’s wife. It rests on a raised structure 34 m side containing a statue of the goddess. This structure is surrounded by a 110 m side enclosure including the annex temples dedicated to the Gods Brahma, Apit, Shiva, Hamsa, Vishnu, Nandi, Garuda and Pervana.
The second temple is small and was largely destroyed during an earthquake. This is the Candi Lumbung.
The third temple, the Candi Bubrah, is intact but small, so not very impressive.
Finally, the fourth temple, the Candi Sewu, consists of several temples, many of which are in ruins. At the rear entrance of this temple, two huge statues face each other. As this temple was under renovation, we did not dwell on it. The first temple, the Candi Prambana is definitely the most impressive to see.
At the exit of the site, the souvenir kiosks are overflowing with goods of all kinds. This time I didn’t buy anything.
We reached our driver and headed home. Upon arrival at the hotel, we were well in a hurry to jump into the pool to cool off. We then took advantage of our patio before returning to our favorite restaurant for dinner: Burgerax.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 15
YOGYAKARTA
After a good night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast at the hostel, we set off in a motorized becak towards the Pasar Ngasem also known as Pasty (Bird Market). It sells a little bit of everything: small birds, bats, lizards, iguanas, owls, monkeys, rabbits, ducks, chickens, fighting roosters, dogs, cats, civets, turtles, guinea pigs, roosters, chicks dyed yellow, green, pink and purple, insects, etc.
Returning in a becah with the same driver, we drove a distance of 5 km through the traffic to go to Kotagede, silver village. We could see the artisans at work at Ansor’s Silver and Narti’s Silver. I took the opportunity to buy a small sterling silver charm ($8 CAD) representing a wayang kulit (traditional puppet used for shadow theatre).
We also went to see the local products of a tea and coffee shop. Among other things, it sells « wild luwak coffee » at a high price.
The becah driver then took us to the Komplex Masjid Besar Kotagede. It was a beautiful discovery. Kotagede is the capital of the ancient Islamic kingdom Mataram. Beautiful stone-carved doors give access to the complex. This includes a mosque, a small pool for washing and bathing and the Royal Mataram Cemetery.
We returned in becah to our hostel. We took a break from our room, enjoying the air conditioning. What a contrast of temperature with the outside! Feeling a crack in our stomach, we walked up our street, the Prawirotaman, to the Javanese restaurant Bu Ageng. How well we ate!
On the way back, we stopped at the Batik Plengton. This shop sells all kinds of high-quality batik clothing and accessories. A real pleasure for the eye but with prices out of our reach.
Claude went for a swim and before joining him at the hostel, I made a stop at the Batik Winotosastro. I visited this excellent batik manufacturing workshop that dates back to 1940.
I was able to see the craftsmen at work at every step of the process, including prints with patterns. I bought two small practical batik cases ($4 CAD for both).
I spent the late afternoon bathing and relaxing on our patio, happy to take a leave of the suffocating heat of the street.
In the early evening, we walked to the Great South Square Alun Alun Selatan. We went around this huge square. Two large trees occupy the centre. Large carpets and coffee tables are spread out on the floor all around the Great Square for people who order food at one of the many food stalls. Original carts with illuminated contours animate the place.
We had an excellent vegetable soup and meatballs in a small restaurant adjoining the Grand Place. Then we went in a becak towards the Great North Square, located 1.5 km away. The driver left us at the front door of the famous Malioboro street. This street is as lively in the evening as it is during the day. We missed the Post Office, the Bank of Indonesia and the Serangan Umum 1 Maret Monument 1949. (The general offensive of March1st, 1949 was a military offensive during the Indonesian National Revolution.)
The Malioboro Street Night Market is very popular. The wide sidewalks on either side of the street are filled with small kiosks overflowing with goods of all kinds. We took a look at the huge mal Malioboro indoor shopping centre. Claude found himself a beautiful black and yellow gold shirt ($12 CAD). We returned to our inn in becak ($5 CAD). We went to rent a motorcycle for the next day (70,000 RI or $7 CAD!).
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 16
YOGYAKARTA
At breakfast, I chatted with two Chileans, happy to be able to practice my Spanish. Claude and I then left with the scooter rented the day before towards Baron Beach, located 39 km south of Yogyakarta. Once the traffic of the city behind us, we drove on a narrow, mountainous and winding road. The jungle and fields were dry due to lack of rainfall. We have seen several rice fields on terraces dried up because of the recent rice harvest. The soils are filled with porous rocks. Some are huge, giving almost lunar landscapes. I would have liked to take pictures on the road, but I didn’t want to disturb Claude in his driving.
After almost three hours of driving including a coffee break, we arrived at Baron Beach. The beach we discovered disappointed us a bit. It is small and you have to board a small boat to get there. The umbrellas are aligned but there are no chairs. The place is still charming with all its small fishing boats and its fish market. In addition, a large number of small kiosks offer all kinds of merchandise for sale: food, clothing, shells, beach accessories, etc.
We decided to go to the nearby beach, Yuyup Beach, located a mile away. This beach is beautiful but unfortunately you can’t swim there because the waves are too powerful, and the bottom is filled with corals. Under a blazing sun and a temperature approaching 40 degrees Celsius, we explored the place. On either side of the beach, two huge rocks come out of the water and make the landscape unique and sublime. A staircase and a bridge allow us to go and observe the sea on the huge rock located on the east side. A shelter was built there. From above, we felt the fresh sea air, making the ambient heat a little more bearable.
We had dinner at one of the small restaurants in the square. I had a noodle and chicken soup (sop mie ayam) and Claude, an excellent fried fish. We then set out on our way back, the buttocks and back already sore and the skin already soaked in sun. Our three hours back on the scooter reminded us that we are no longer 20 years old! The last hour was the most painful; traffic and pollution were added to the rest.
How happy we were to finally arrive at our hotel! We jumped into the pool, happy as fish in the water! We rested at our room and went out to dinner at Masalla restaurant (Asian cuisine) where I ate an excellent Thai salad and chicken wings.
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 17
YOGYAKARTA – SURAKARTA (SOLO) Pop: 535,000
After lunch, I went to give some items that embarrassed my suitcase to the two receptionists at our hotel and the becak driver waiting for guests in front of the hotel. I made people happy!
Claude and I then took a Grab Taxi to get to the bus station. We were directed directly into the bus to Surakarta and we just had time to sit as the bus was leaving! We paid for our passage on board: $1.50 CAD including a bottle of water each for two hours of travel!
Surakarta, also known as Solo, was founded on the basis of a simple village in 1745 to become the new capital of the kingdom of Mataram. The city has lived to the rhythm of Indonesian history. Rich in culture and visited by many tourists, it is also one of the economic centers of the country.
Upon arrival in Solo, we went to the Adhiwangsa Hotel with GrabTaxi. We had a bargain on Booking ($34 CAD per night, including breakfast). This luxurious five-star hotel has a large swimming pool in its beautiful courtyard. We arrived in the middle of a wedding. The elaborate and chic costumes of some women and girls were impressive to see!
We settled in our room and then, in a sweltering temperature of 36 degrees, we looked for a restaurant around the hotel but without success. Finally, we bought three mini pizzas at the Indo Maret convenience store and came back to eat them around the pool of our hotel.
We had a quiet afternoon. I took a bath with Claude and then went up to our room. Comfortably installed in the small office, air conditioning, I worked on my travel blog.
We had dinner at the hotel restaurant, sitting on the terrace. My spicy shrimp pasta was good but sorely lacking in vegetables. Claude generously shared his with me.
In the evening we went for a walk around the hotel. Claude took the opportunity to get his hair cut.
I chatted at length with Fery, a charming young hotel employee. He answered all my questions about Solo’s tourist spots, map of the city in hand. Before going to bed, I booked our train tickets on the Traveloka website. Wonderful! This site is simple and convenient. I won’t do without it!
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 18
SOLO
At breakfast, the choice of food was vast. However, I did not eat Indonesian food. I was rather content with a good continental breakfast.
We left around 9am with Grab Taxi, taking advantage of the « freshness » of the morning (about 30 degrees C) to make our visits to the city of Solo. The Danar Hadi House Museum has impressed us with its unique and incredible collection of batiks: 10,000 pieces of batiks are on display. The young guide told us the story of Indonesia through the motifs of the batiks meticulously distributed in the eleven rooms of the big house. We also saw four craftswomen at work and finally, the shop of products of all kinds made of batik.
A becak driver then drove us to the Istana Mangkunegaran. Built in 1757, this palace still serves as a residence for the royal family. In front of the house, a large room with marble floor is used for ceremonies led by a percussion orchestra (gamelan). In the large residence, a few rooms are dedicated to a museum that contains the personal collection of Mangkunegara VII: gold-plated clothes for royal dances, a superb collection of masks, jewelry and some strange accessories such as a gold rooster to hide the genitals. In order to save time, we skipped the guided tour of the museum after a quick look.
Returning to the city in a becak to save energy, we went to Karcis Masuk Kraton Surakarta. This palace is a unique historical building that was designed with the help of Sultan Hamengkubuwono I. The inner courtyard was supposed to be beautiful at the time, but today it definitely lacks maintenance. The museum goes around and contains several exhibition rooms featuring royal carioles, sculptures in rock, batiks, wayang kulit (puppets for shadow theatre), gamelan instruments, masks, etc.
The Sultan’s Palace is closed to visitors except during special ceremonies. We could still see it in the opening of a door.
Under a big 38 degrees C, we took another becak. We passed the Pasar Klewer (reputed batik market) and the Mesjid Agung (mosque) to go to the Kampung Wisata Batik Kauman Solo. This « batik village » contains several small alleys with workshops and batik shops. Claude waited for me in the shade while I went for a quick tour of the village.
We dined in the corner in a small restaurant for the « locals » ($1.85 CAD each, beverage included!). On the menu: Masakan Padang (Buffet style Padang cuisine) The fish we chose was delicious!
We went to Fort Vastenburg in a becak. Unfortunately, it was closed. It only opens when there is a special event.
As it was extremely hot, we decided to go back to the hotel to go for a swim. I finished the afternoon at our room to work again on my travel blog. I needed a break from the intense heat from outside. We had dinner at the hotel and took a walk afterwards. We went back to a batik shop. There was a huge selection of clothes and patterns, but nothing fell in my eye.
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 19
SOLO
This morning we visited the Taru Jurug Solo Zoological Garden. This activity seemed to us the best option because in half a day yesterday we had seen the main tourist attractions of this small town of little interest. In the oppressive heat, we started with the bird aviaries and then took a small colorful bus to the mammal enclosures. The zoo lacks maintenance and greenery is scarce in the pens, but the site contains an interesting variety of animals. As usual, my favorite section was that of the monkeys. Claude amused me when he started behaving like one of their own in order to make them react.
We had dinner at a small food kiosk outside the zoo, sitting on a carpet in front of a small coffee table. How hot it was! My back was sweaty. What a grueling heat (37 degrees C)!
We spent the afternoon bathing and relaxing. Claude stayed around the pool while I preferred to go up to our room in order to continue working on my blog, comfortably installed in air conditioning. In the late afternoon, we walked to the Alila Solo. This luxurious and modern hotel includes a huge terrace with a swimming pool on the 6th floor and a restaurant on the 29th floor terrace. We started by going to see the 6th floor and then we went up to the 29th to see the sunset over the city of Solo while eating Mexican tacos to the sound of Latin music. The sun was orange, and the sky was pink. A cloud formed over part of the city and we had a good time observing the lightning that was rising from it.
We came back to our hotel in becak. An outdoor show with popular and traditional music was held on the hotel grounds. This Halloween-themed evening was reserved for students at a senior school. Curious, I went to take a look at the scene, time to take some pictures of the young people in traditional costumes.
Claude and I bathed once again, happy to cool off. The temperature had dropped to 33 degrees C, making the heat bearable on this beautiful « summer » evening.
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 20
SOLO – SURABAYA (pop: 3.5 million)
We got up early to catch the 7.55am train at Purwosati railway station. Our journey from Solo to Surabaya, which lasted 5 hours and 30 minutes, was well, although we were stuck on our right benches in an economy car ($8 CAD each). Our knees were coming between the legs of our neighbors sitting in front of us. This proximity to complete strangers was rather uncomfortable. Sitting on the edge of the window, I felt the warm air from outside that was seeping through the glass. Eurk!
Surabaya is Indonesia’s second largest city with a population of 3.5 million. The Indonesians consider it the city of heroes because of the importance of the Battle of Surabaya in Indonesian galvanization and international support for the country’s independence during the Indonesian National Revolution of 1945. Surabaya is the birthplace of President Soekarno, the country’s first president. Tanjung Perak, the city’s port, is Indonesia’s first port.
I wanted to come to Surabaya to meet the family who had hosted me when I was in Kendari on sulawesi Island in 1982. The family moved to Surabaya 33 years ago. The father passed away. The mother lives with one of her daughters: Tri. She put me in touch with her two sisters Ria and Nurul, as well as with Audy, their brother.
Upon our arrival in Surabaya, Leony, a young woman who works for Audy’s company, picked us up at the station with her driver. They drove us back to our luxurious 5-star hotel, the Majapahit Hotel. My family of past wanted to pay us this luxury for the four nights of our stay in Surabaya (lunch included). The hotel is huge and part of the city’s heritage. The building and the courtyards are beautiful.
After dropping off our luggage at our room, large and spacious with a seating area, we went to dinner on the5th floor of the Tunjungan Plaza. We opted for Italian dishes (lasagna and spaghetti) which proved excellent for not too expensive. We then took the elevator to the 10th floor terrace from where we could enjoy the panoramic view of the city of Surabaya and take a look at the programming of the IMAX cinema.
Back at the hotel, Claude went for a swim and I took a nap. As my « sister » Tri had too much work in the office, she was unable to come and meet us as planned in the evening. Claude and I, under the recommendation of one of the hotel’s doormen, took a GrabTaxi to eat on Jalan Kedungdoro Street, Surabaya’s popular Street Food. The incessant and noisy traffic in addition to the pollution and suffocating heat of the city centre discouraged us from eating on the sidewalk. We found a small air-conditioned restaurant. My vegetable rice was so spicy that I left half of it!
On the way back, buttocks stuck on the narrow bench of our becak, we discovered a small night market just around the corner from our hotel. We went for a walk, discovering some food and clothing kiosks, small grocery stores and the Pasar Genteng Baru Surabaya market, closed in the evening. We ended the evening in the pool, swimming by the light of the illuminated buildings and with the bat company going back and forth over our heads.
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21
SURABAYA
After an excellent night and a delicious breakfast worthy of our five-star hotel, we waited for our guide Eko and his driver Damar in the lobby. I had time to take several information about the city, map in hand, from the nice and patient receptionist. The two men arrived around 10:30 a.m. After getting to know each other, the four of us left for a tour of the city. (Tri’s family once again insisted on paying all the fees for our day. We are very grateful to them. My « sister » Ria, who was to accompany us for our visits, had a last-minute impediment.)
We started with the House of Sampoerna, a former tobacco factory that has become a tobacco museum. Thanks to the documentary we watched, we were still able to see the workers at work.
Eko then took us to see the Javanese Bank Museum. Upstairs, you can see an exhibition devoted to good Indonesian-Australian relations while the ground floor is reserved for the bank itself: old machines used to make banknotes, old Indonesian rupees, vaults, etc.
We stopped to pick up a coconut milk drink and bought a lunch that we nibbled on during our guided bus tour with the « Surabaya Heritage Track » (Duration: 1 hour; Free; Departure from the House of Sampoerna).
During this tour, we saw the old Dutch colonial buildings located in the heart of the old town, taman Sejarah Park, the Red Bridge (where several Indonesians are said to have fallen in battle during the war with the Dutch), the beautiful modern building of the BCA bank, the Soekarno Hatta Monument (the upside down or even a male power illustrating victory in the War of Independence).
After our guided bus tour, we drove with Eko and Damar to Kenjeran Park, also known as Kenpark. We saw: the Buddha Thailand Four Faces Statue, the Sanggar Agung Chinese Temple (a Hindu temple on the edge of the strike with rock bottom), a magnificent pagoda, bougainvillea and tabebuyas (reputable flower trees in Surabaya) and several replicas of Disney Castle housing small shops. The site is huge and contains an amusement park for young people.
We then went to Taman Suroboyo. Taman means garden. Suroboyo means Surabaya in the local dialect. Suro means shark (danger) and boyo means crocodile (bravery). The Sura and Baya statue depicting the battle between a shark and a crocodile rises in the center of the garden.
Walking along the promenade along the beach of rocks and shells, we could see some fishermen unloading their catch of the day. Dozens of small fishing boats were anchored near the strike. We crossed the small fishing village, a poor but welcoming place. The smiles of the villagers were displayed on their faces as we passed. Across the street, we saw the empty shelves of the Sentra Ikan Bulak fish market, closed at this late time of day.
The four of us had dinner at Primarasa restaurant. We shared some great Indonesian food.
In the evening, we visited the Monumen Kapal Selam. This Russian submarine is named KRI Pasopati 410. He served from 1952 to 1962 and participated in the war with the Japanese. We discovered the engine room and life on board (canteen, berths, etc.) by crossing from room to room through windows while squatting.
Eko then took us to the « kota broom » (town hall or town hall), a large white colonial building that is part of the city’s heritage. We entered a first room: the Surabaya Tourism Information Centre. A large model of the city is on display.
In the office next door, a private language school offers courses in about ten languages (Japanese, Korean, Mandarin, English, French, etc.).
The music of a percussion orchestra (gamelan) caught our attention in another room of the great building. I was invited to sit among the young musicians to play with them. Sitting in front of a traditional gamelan xylophone, mallet in hand, I tried to follow the score of music given to me. One of the teachers came to sit next to me, singing the lyrics of the song and pointing me to the notes to play. (The score consists of notes represented by the numbers 1-2-3-5-6-1-2. Each number corresponds to an encrypted xylophone blade.) I managed to follow in the slow passages, but I was somewhat lost in the faster passages. I still had a good time, feeling privileged to be able to participate in their musical rehearsal. What a great experience for me!
We set off on foot and crossed a pedestrian bridge with views of the illuminated skyscrapers downtown. We arrived at the Governor Soeryo Monument. On the other side of the road, we had a beautiful view of the Governor’s House whose outlines are defined by a thread of red light.
Upon arrival at the hotel, busy but very satisfied with our day of exploration, we bid farewell to Eko and Damar. After a good cool shower and a laundry session in hand, we fell into a deep sleep, curled into our duvet and enjoying the fresh air from our room.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 22
SURABAYA
After a hearty breakfast, in a temperature already reaching 35 degrees, we left with a GrabTaxi towards Kembang Jepun Street, the main thoroughfare of the small Chinatown. On our way to the Pasar Pabean fish market, Claude bought a ring with a large brown and beige stone from a walking walker and a perfume made on site in a perfumery. Following the smell of fish, we found the market at the end of the street. In addition to fish stalls, the market contains all kinds of other foodstuffs: spices, fruits, etc.
We then went to the Arab quarter. The huge traditional covered market Ampel Suci is full of batiks (sarongs, clothing and accessories) and all kinds of items for locals and tourists alike. This market is similar to the traditional Istanbul market in Turkey. Small narrow alleys connect with the market, allowing for a glimpse of the houses around the market.
At the exit of the market, we took a coffee break « kopi susu », watching the faithful head to the mosque « Mesjid Sunan Ampel » to do their Friday lunch prayer. We conversed in a mixture of Indonesian Bahasa and English with two men sitting near our table, to the sound of the resounding call to prayer from the loudspeaker located at the top of the minaret.
We went in GrabTaxi to the Museum Surabaya Siola, recommended by my « sister » Tri. This museum is free and contains a diverse collection of objects of all kinds of the region: wayang kulit, traditional costumes, furnishings, musical instruments, becaks, tuk-tuk, equipment related to different crafts, etc. I discovered, to my delight, the score of Indonesia Raya, the Indonesian anthem that I particularly cherish. I can’t wait to play this tune by composer Supratman on my violin when I return to Canada.
After a few minutes’ walk, we visited the large Pasar Genteng Baru market located near our hotel. On the first floor, they sell food. The second and third floors are reserved for the sale of electronic products and services. I took the opportunity to buy a spare USB wire to charge my cell phone.
On Jalan Tunjungan Street, Claude found himself a pair of walking sandals. We then dined at the restaurant at the Varna Culture Hotel, next door to our accommodation. For $5 CAD each, we enjoyed the buffet.
We spent the afternoon at the hotel, enjoying the pool and the coolness of our room, waiting for the news from Tri. Finally, she and her sister postponed our meeting until the next day, too tired of their long day at work. Hungry, Claude and I went in search of a restaurant nearby. (Our hotel restaurant has high prices that exceed our daily budget!) We found Kapau Banda Dama restaurant specializing in authentic Padang food (« masakan Padang » in Bahasa Indonesia; $4 CAD each including our beverage).
We finished the evening at the hotel. Lying on our bed, we watched the excellent documentary « Our Planet » (1st episode) on Netflix before falling into a deep sleep.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 23
SURABAYA
The sun, unrelenting, was still there this morning. We spent a quiet morning at the hotel, waiting for our scheduled meeting in the lobby, at noon, with my « sister » Tri. She arrived on time, accompanied by her 15-year-old daughter Salma and her cousin. What a joy to see Tri again after 36 years, she was only 10 years old at the time! We all got into her van. She took us to the Grand City Mall. Two Christmas trees and Christmas elves decorate the entrance hall. A « Snow Playground » welcomes young people who want to play with boilers and shovels in artificial snow. Skating enthusiasts can skate on an artificial ice rink under the theme « Christmas Wonderland on Ice. » I was almost missing winter to see them having fun on the ice! I didn’t expect to see such facilities in Indonesia!
We went up to the 1st floor and settled down at a large table in an Indonesian restaurant. It was then that Ria, my other « sister », arrived with her husband Amirul (lawyer), their daughter Namira (16) and Khadijah (16), daughter of my « brother » Audy. How excited Ria was to see me again after so many years! I was very moved by it. Throughout the meal, we happily remembered old memories and talked about our lives with our families.
After our dinner, we attended, in a corner of the mall, a small gamelan concert performed by school friends of Khadijah. A huge Christmas tree served as a backdrop next to the stage, reminding us that the holiday season is coming. Claude and I don’t feel at all in the holiday atmosphere with the 40 degrees outside!
On our return to the hotel, Tri made a stop at the town hall to take some pictures in front of the beautiful building and in front of the giant letters « BALAI KOTA ».
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the cool in our room while waiting for the big family dinner scheduled for 7pm at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant Sarkies. The reunion took place in the lobby. What a joy to see my entire Kendari foster family from 36 years ago! To those I had already seen were added my little sister Nurul (she now lives in Borneo, works at the BNI Bank and is 41 years old) and her son Jafni (8 years), my brother Audy (49 years old, wealthy businessman and owner of a nickel mine northeast of Sulawesi), his wife Arinta (notary), one of their son, Daffa (21 years old, a computer engineering student), an uncle, two former Audy co-workers and my Indonesian mother « ibu » (76 years old, almost blind, in a wheelchair, suffering from dementia and accompanied by a woman hired to care for her). The highlight of our reunion was with my mother; she remembered me! (Her memory of the past is better than the one of the present.) I told her the few bahasa indonesia phrases I know, and I sang « Di sini senang, » holding her hands and saying « ibu cantik » (beautiful mom). She was very touched to find her « daughter » and wiped her eyes, moved. What a beautiful moment! I also had tears in my eyes.
Nurul gave me a sarong and a beautiful colorful and handcrafted centerpiece, made of pearls. How generous!
Dinner was very pleasant. Sitting next to my « mother » I was able to communicate with her with the help of Khadijah, who specializes in translation. Towards the end of the meal, I joined Audy at his table to chat with him and make plans for our future meeting in Kendari in Sulawesi. At the end of the evening, I made a short speech to thank the whole family warmly for their warm welcome with Claude and me. I went to bed for the night, my heart at the height of the happiness of having received so much love!
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24
SURABAYA – BALI
Claude and I had lunch at the hotel before heading to the lobby to join Nurul and her son Jafni, Ria and her daughter Namira, Tri and her daughter Salma, ibu and her helper and the cousin of my three sisters. We took advantage of our last moments together to chat and make plans to meet again in Kendari whenever possible. The heartbreaking farewells followed, not knowing if we were going to see each other again. I told them not to wait 36 years, as was the case for me, before coming to visit us in Canada!
(Following our trip in the BALI article)
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