SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24 (Continuation of the article)
SURABAYA – BALI
Tri’s driver drove us to Surabaya airport. We flew to Bali at 12:20pm and arrived at 2.10pm local time. (There is an hour’s time difference between the two cities.) Yayuk and Gede were waiting for us at the airport exit. What a joy to see Yayuk and Gede, my friend whom I hadn’t seen in 36 years! Yayuk took us home, taking the new highway that leads directly to the Bukit Peninsula, south of Bali. Within 60 minutes, we were at her house in Pecatu district. We met her husband Francis, a Swiss-born French speaker (73 years old and retired), and their daughter Dini (35, single and university professor in tourism).
The five of us chatted at length (Yayuk, Francis, Gede, Claude and I) around the kitchen table in their small courtyard. We got up to date in the news and Gede gave me suggestions for itineraries for our visits to the island of Bali.
Sensing the need to move, I went to explore the surroundings with Francis and Claude. We made a stop to take a drink in the courtyard of a place of accommodation consisting of pretty little villas in traditional style. Back at Yayuk’s, we dined together inside, enjoying excellent Indonesian food prepared by Yayuk. In the evening, a good cool shower was required. Installed in the apartment for rent adjoining their house, we slept with air conditioning and a large fan in our room to make the temperature bearable.
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25
BALI (PECATU at Yayuk)
We had lunch with Yayuk and Francis. The latter had taken care to fetch good fresh bread of the day at the bakery. We then went for a walk around, all four of us sitting in Yayuk’s van. My friend made a stop at the imposing statue of the Pecatu Indah Resort in her neighborhood.
She then took us to Villas Prasana, luxurious villas at a minimum of $300 CAD per night. We visited two of them.
The Anantara Ulawatu Resort visited afterwards interested us more as it is located above a cliff overlooking Uluwatu beach below and Padang Padang beach a little further east. They tried to sell us a spa session and massages, but the prices far exceeded our daily travel budget. The night for a room is paid at least CAD$500.
Uluwatu beach is private and small while Padang Padang beach is especially popular for surfing. The bottoms are dotted with corals, which surprised us; this is not the idea that we had of Bali’s beaches.
Yayuk then wanted to show us a piece of land that belongs to him in Dreamland, a wealthy part of the city.
We had dinner at a Chinese restaurant on the main street near Yayuk’s. Our « ikan gurame asam manis » (fried fish with sweet and sour sauce) was exquisite.
In the afternoon we went to get the information for renting a scooter. As we were not sure that our insurance would cover us in the event of an accident, we dropped this idea of renting a scooter.
I drove off with Yayuk while the men went swimming at home. I bought another SIM card for my cell phone. I got ripped off; When I arrived at Yayuk’s, I realized that the card was not working. Damn! I’ll have to go back to the store tomorrow.
Yayuk showed me her house for sale. This house served as an office for her daughter’s tourist agency before her business closed. We then went to the cleaner to pick up the clothes Yayuk had left there (price per kilo) before returning home to meet our men.
After relaxing in our room, Claude and I went for a walk on the main street, quickly exasperated by the heavy traffic, the noise of the engines, the heat, the absence of sidewalks, the holes in the asphalt and the waste accumulated at the side of the road. The neighborhood is sorely lacking in maintenance and it is perilous to walk on this narrow thoroughfare where cars and mopeds approach us in passing. We didn’t get very far. Finally, we opted for dinner at the small restaurant around the corner. Despite the hellish traffic noise, we enjoyed our Indonesian food containing lots of good vegetables. Before going back to Yayuk’s to finish the evening at our room, we bought some groceries at the grocery store.
TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 26
BALI (PECATU- word from Portuguese « pescado »: fish)
We had lunch with Yayuk and Francis. Leaving Yayuk behind, we walked off with Francis. Claude and I toured the local fruit and vegetable market and then went to the cell phone shop. After 30 minutes, by dint of obstinately with the seller, I ended up getting the full refund of the expired SIM card that he had sold me the day before.
On board two Grab Bikes, we visited the impressive GWK site (Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue; $15 CAD/person including the on-site shuttle service). The dusty path to the top of the mountain where the huge statue of Vishnu is located gives us the impression of being at the gates of the desert in any Middle Eastern country. The path runs along with gigantic rocks, some of which have been carved on their façade. It’s really impressive! The statue of Vishnu is imposing and overlooks the city. Inside, frames with commemorative photos hang on the walls. For $15 CAD each, we could have climbed into the statue, but we let it happen. The shuttle came down halfway down. From there, we passed between the huge rocks to see the imposing statue of a bird’s head and a giant nest with three large eggs in it.
At the entrance to the Hindu temple, we were asked to wear the yellow scarf provided at the waist. Claude was looked at with a funny look because he had put the scarf on his head to protect himself from the sun! The Plaza Wisnu offers a magnificent view of much of the Bali Peninsula. The statue of Wisnu is beautiful and imposing.
We had dinner at the small snack bar at the bottom of the stairs. Claude then waited for me while I went to see a show of traditional Balinese dances at the outdoor amphitheatre. I enjoyed this colorful show despite the fact that I did not understand the story told in Bahasa indonesia. The elaborate costumes of the dancers and the gamelan orchestra charmed me.
We left the site in Grab Bikes. Our drivers left us at Dreamland Beach. We discovered a beach overrun by tourists and surfers. The many red « Air Asia » umbrellas are lined up on the beach ($15 CAD for two sun loungers and parasol/day). A restaurant and a small surf rental business overlook the sea. We moved away from the crowds and settled in the shade of a huge rock. In turn, we bathed, happy to cool off with a temperature approaching 40 degrees! We had to bathe with caution as the bottom of the water is dotted with rocks and corals.
We took a taxi ($12 CAD) and ended our day at Jimbaran Beach, recommended by Yayuk for its popular beachfront restaurants and bars. We enjoyed this beautiful large beach in Jimbaran Bay. Other beaches are its continuity: Pantai Muaya, Pantai Kedonganan and Pantai Kelan. Jimbaran Beach is connected to small tourist streets with craft shops, tourist agencies, etc. Charmed by the place, we rented 2 sun loungers and an umbrella. Swimming and dinner on the beach followed. We were able to enjoy the beautiful sunset. It was with astonishment that we saw the many restaurants on the beach suddenly filling up at supper time. The candles on the tables twinkled in the night, joyfully illuminating the beach.
When we returned to Yayuk’s, we finished the evening chatting with our friends.
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 27
BALI (PECATU)
Claude and I had lunch in the summer kitchen at Yayuk. We then walked to a seamstress on the main street. During the 30 minutes she shortened my pants, we went for coffee at the restaurant across the street. The young seamstress only charged me 10K (10,000 Indonesian rupees or $1 CAD). I gave him a good tip. She was surprised but grateful.
We left with two Grab Bikes towards Nusa Dua Beach. We walked on the long and beautiful seaside promenade. On one side, we could see the facilities of the luxurious hotels and on the other, the long white sand beach that changes its name every 300 meters or so. We ended up finding the public beach Pantai Bengiat. We rented two sun loungers and an umbrella for the day ($10 CAD). (Six-star hotels charge 4 to 5 times the price for the same equipment.)
In the scorching heat, we bathed several times, letting ourselves be lulled by the small waves. Only the seaweed-lined bottom was a little annoying. We had dinner on the beach. Our « nasi goreng » was delicious! At 3 p.m., the blazing sun got the better of us. We walked up the main street filled with small tourist shops. We bought a set of doilies for Yayuk. Before going by taxi, I took some pictures of the beautiful large temple Bale Agung.
Back at Yayuk, we snacked with our friends. Yayuk and I then went to dinner at the Japanese restaurant Sushi Tei at the luxurious Jimbaran Sidewalk shopping centre. The waiter brought Yayuk a plate of shushi and sang « Happy Birthday » in Indonesian (a week late)!
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 28
BALI (PECATU) – UBUD
We had breakfast with Yayuk and Francis, said goodbye to them and left with our guide Komang and our driver, his son ($60 CAD for 10 hours of service).
We made a first stop at Kuta Beach. This white sand beach is huge and there are surf lessons. We had a crush on this tourist area with well-maintained sidewalks.
We made a second stop at Ground 0. It was there that a suicide bomber and then a truck packed with explosives exploded. About two hundred people died in the attack: 88 Australians, 38 Indonesians, 23 Britons and all others from 19 other countries. The names of the victims can be seen on a huge commemorative plaque and a fountain has been erected in the center of the square.
Third stop: The Petitenget temple and the beach of the same name in Seminyak. The beach is public, quiet and deserted during the day. We were lucky enough to see, for a few minutes, the ceremony of a baptism that took place there.
We drove on a road lined with golden rice fields, sometimes grown in terraces, sometimes on flat fields.
Fourth stop: Changgu Beach. There was a bad smell coming from the open sewers when we disembarked the van to get there. The beach is narrow. We give surf lessons there. We remained with doubts about water quality; the sewers seemed to flow into the sea.
Fifth stop: « Sita Amerta Tanah Lot Agrotourism: Luwak Coffee ». A young employee guided us through coffee plantations, fruit trees, etc. She explained the process used to make Luwak coffee. We were then invited to sit down for a free tasting of a dozen kinds of teas and coffees. (Obviously, the famous Luwak coffee was not in the samples to try for free.) We took a quick tour of the shop, the final and unmissable stop on the guided tour. We didn’t buy anything and appreciated not feeling pressure from the shop employees.
Sixth stop: The Tanah Lot Temple. This site is huge and overlooks a cliff. We were sold two high-priced (non-negotiable) sarongs, making us believe that we could not borrow or rent one at the entrance to the temple during our visit. It put me out of my mind when I realized that we had been lied to in the face! After passing the tourist shops, we entered the site, discovering a huge pierced rock and a temple on its top. What a perfect setting with the sun, the sea, the beach and the blue sky! We walked on the rock, approaching the temple without being able to enter it. We then followed the promenade overlooking the beach to see other temples: Batu Bolong, Pura Jro Kandang and Pura Penataran Luhur Tanah Lot. That’s when we saw the Pura Luhur Tanah Lot. This impressive temple was built on top of a huge rock accessible on foot at low tide. The décor is enchanting. Claude set foot in the water to cool off.
We passed through an alley of souvenir shops to get to the top of the cliff and have an excellent dinner, sitting in the wind and enjoying the magnificent view of the Tanah Lot temple below. I had ordered a « sate ayam » (chicken skewers with peanut sauce) but the waiter misunderstood me, and he brought me « soto ayam » (sort of chicken soup). I still enjoyed my meal.
Seventh stop: Tegenungan Fall. To get to the waterfall, we had to cross the many small souvenir shops and go down a hundred steps in the jungle. We first cooled off in the small pool where spring water flows. We then bathed in the basin at the bottom of the high fall. The place is nice despite being overrun with tourists.
We ended our day with our guide upon arrival at our accommodation in Ubud, the Lucky Family Cottage. We received a nice welcome from Kadek, the owner. Our room and bathroom are large and spacious. Our balcony faces tropical vegetation behind which the pool is located. The place is quiet and just far enough away not to be disturbed by the incessant traffic of the city. To get there, we have to take a long and narrow alley.
We settled down and jumped into the water to lower our body temperature. What a damning heat! We went out for dinner on Teges Street near our accommodation. On the menu: chicken burger and fries! On the way back, we took some information about Gili, Lombok and Flores in a small travel agency located directly on the street.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 29
BALI (UBUD)
An excellent continental breakfast was served on our patio.
We walked to the Monkey Forest, home to 900 long-tailed macaques divided into four large families. What a pleasure we had to observe these fascinating animals in their natural environment! We had to be wary of them because they like to steal food and water bottles from tourists. They’re everywhere! It’s the first time I’ve seen so many at once. The trails that cross the jungle are well laid out and lead to three temples. The largest temple is named After Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal. The whole site is really beautiful. Giant trees with long roots, bridges and statues contribute to the beauty of the place.
At the exit of the Monkey Forest, we walked on the tourist street leading to the Ubud Market and took the opportunity to dine. Our Indonesian food was delicious!
We quickly toured the local market. The displays inside and out are overflowing with goods of all kinds dedicated to tourists. The heat discouraged us from staying there a little longer.
We crossed the street to see the famous Ubud Palace. It is actually the Puri Saren Agung temple. It is beautiful and contains several pavilions with golden trims.
Overwhelmed by the afternoon heat (33 degrees C), we returned in Grab Bikes to our villa to enjoy the pool. We worked on our itinerary over the next few days and booked the speed boat to go to Gili Air Island. Claude had fun and cooked a spaghetti parmigiana in the summer kitchen. We devoured it!
In the evening, the temperature was comfortable (28 degrees). We bathed in the moonlight, happy as fish in the water! Afterwards, we went for a walk around, happily discovering a neighborhood life. Several ceremonies were held in temples with offerings and gamelan orchestras.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 30
BALI (UBUD)
We had lunch on our terrace before our driver and guide Tupu picked us up for a day trip around Ubud.
First stop: Pura Gunung Kawi. This temple was built in the 11th century in northeast Tampaksiring. It is located on the banks of the Pakrisan River. The complex, which candi-shaped, is accessed after crossing beautiful terraced rice fields (300 steps), consists of 10 candi-shaped sanctuaries, dug into the rock of the cliff at a height of 7 m. These tombs were dedicated to King Anak Wungsu (of the Udayana dynasty) and his wives.
Upon arrival in the parking lot, a woman sold us two high-priced sarongs claiming that we had no choice but to buy them if we wanted to visit the temple. We then walked down a street lined with small craft shops and were offered sarongs at a price three times lower. Heck! In addition, at the entrance to the site, sarongs were loaned free of charge to visitors! I was outraged that I had been lied to in the face by this dishonest woman. (I didn’t see her again when we left the temple; she had run away!) I also resented our guide who didn’t tell us anything at the time of our purchase. He probably got a rating from the saleswoman! Anyway, we really enjoyed visiting this unusual and very impressive archaeological site.
Second stop: The sacred springs of Tirta Empul, Bali’s purification temple, and the presidential palace (at the top of the hill overlooking the temple).
Pura Tirta Empul (Temple of Holy Water): For more than a thousand years, Balinese Hindus have been attracted to this temple, whose sacred springs with healing properties were created by the god Indra. This tradition, almost unchanged, continues today, and apart from believers, tourists from all over the world also come to this place to admire the beauty of the place and bathe in the refreshing and blessed waters. Balinese and Hindu devotees line up in swimming pools waiting to pass their heads under the jets of sacred water in a purification ritual known as merulat. They begin the ritual in the pool on the left side standing up to the waist under the first stream of water. Once they have cleaned themselves under the first jet, they join the next line. This process continues until they have cleaned themselves under each water channel. This temple is the main temple, but the huge site contains several others.
Tampaksiring Palace: This palace is one of Indonesia’s six presidential palaces. It was built from 1957 to 1963 in a style that blends modernism with Balinese architecture.
Third stop: Batur volcano and lake of the same name seen from the observatory high in Kintamani. The panoramic view is magnificent. The fire caused by lava destroyed everything in its path when the volcano erupted in August 2018. You can see the black lava that has hardened over much of the volcano.
We went down the road to the lake. We went to the Batur Natural Hot Spring site but, as it was expensive and we were hungry, we didn’t swim. I took some pictures of the temple on the site, the Pura Tirta Mas Bungkah. We then turned around. Before going up the road to Kintamani, we made a brief stop to see the huge lake and its boats up close.
Fourth stop: The Natural Terrace Rice at Pakudui-Tegallalang. We had dinner at Cafe Dewi, sitting on the terrace overlooking the beautiful rice terraces. The site is enchanting. Once satisfied, we walked on the main street of the village comprising almost exclusively restaurants and souvenir shops and offering access to go for a walk in the rice fields.
On the way back, we passed by a road full of craft shops dedicated to exports. We made a brief stop at a sculpture workshop where we saw, impressed, a gigantic Borneo tree trunk hanging in the courtyard.
Upon arrival at the hotel, we bathed. We then walked two km to go to dinner downtown. We opted for the indoor and air-conditioned White-Yellow restaurant where we served the excellent vegetarian buffet (rice, tofu, tempeh, spinach, etc.). We walked home and I didn’t get asked to go to bed!
MORE IN MY NEXT ARTICLE: GILI AIR AND LOMBOK
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